Drinking in San Francisco

It took us until our second tenure in San Francisco to figure out how to eat in the city. Here you flee from fancy food like from a tropical outhouse. Fancy food in San Francisco is overhyped, overpriced, and overcooked. Like Jonathan Gold advised Angelenos, it’s best to eat at restaurants serving ethnic foods that are owned by a single person or family.

Do that and you’re unlikely to go wrong. Patronize restaurants run by “teams,” on the other hand, whose guiding principle is the “concept” and you’re on your own.