European Diary: Starbucks, 13th Avenue; 7:15 a.m., Friday; July 2, 2004; Eugene, Oregon, U.S.A.

The Eurostar had the most comfortable seat that ever crippled me. My back is still a mess. After Paris the everyday grace of living was missing from London and the British seemed crass. S. missed the good manners we encountered in Paris. The British are supposed to be well-mannered and the French rude. It isContinue reading “European Diary: Starbucks, 13th Avenue; 7:15 a.m., Friday; July 2, 2004; Eugene, Oregon, U.S.A.”

European Diary: Potter Street; 7:00 p.m., Monday; July 4, 2004; Eugene, Oregon, U.S.A.

The Paris I have wanted to live in has always been the Paris of my imagination, the Paris I made out of what I’ve read – “A Moveable Feast,” “Being Geniuses Together,” Morley Callahan’s “That Summer in Paris,” “Exile’s Return” and “Tropic of Cancer.” The Paris of today is bright, hard, expensive, covered by CNNContinue reading “European Diary: Potter Street; 7:00 p.m., Monday; July 4, 2004; Eugene, Oregon, U.S.A.”

European Diary: K&K George Hotel, 1-15 Templeton Place, Kensington; Tuesday; June 29, 2004; London, England, U.K.

Yesterday we did our laundry, packed paid our bill (less than I had feared) and said goodbye to Paris, a difficult goodbye as I realized what a different city it was, even in this brass age, designed for living. We took the Eurostar to London, very fast and comfortable. Disembarking we saw Catherine Deneuve standingContinue reading “European Diary: K&K George Hotel, 1-15 Templeton Place, Kensington; Tuesday; June 29, 2004; London, England, U.K.”

European Diary: Balcony, Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 11:00 p.m., Monday; June 28, 2004; Paris, France

From a trip to the Louvre: “Le Grande Odalisque” by Ingres. Flesh so rotten it’s about to fall off the bone, a peach or partridge about to turn. “Winged Victory of Samothrace.” Ambassadors from all over the Greek world, especially Asia Minor, came once a year to Samothrace, an island in the northern Aegean, toContinue reading “European Diary: Balcony, Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 11:00 p.m., Monday; June 28, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Brasserie Le Luco, Boulevard St.-Michel; morning, Saturday; June 26, 2004; Paris, France

The Jewish Museum in Paris is located in a beautiful old hotel particulier in the Marais. Instead of being a catch-all or try to exhaust the catalogue of the Jewish experience, it focused on the experience of Jews through their art, focusing on France. So you move from beautiful early medieval grave markers to paintingsContinue reading “European Diary: Brasserie Le Luco, Boulevard St.-Michel; morning, Saturday; June 26, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 8:11 p.m., Friday; June 25, 2004; Paris, France

Today we walked down through St.-Germain des Pres and over the Seine to the Jewish Museum in the Marais, the Picasso Museum, Place des Vosges, Pont Sully, up rue Cardinal Lemoine to the Place Contrescarpe. I thought the Place Contrescarpe sounded familiar, so I stopped at a bookshop just off the square. I had triedContinue reading “European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 8:11 p.m., Friday; June 25, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Café Le Dac, Boulevard St.-Michele; 7:00 a.m., Friday; June 25, 2004; Paris, France

Horrible nightmare: I was in Boulder, Colorado with two girlfriends and two groups of people, one of which was an acting troupe I led. I kept traveling between the two. With a friend, who was part M. and part this guy I worked with at Ask Jeeves whose wife edited an art magazine. It turnsContinue reading “European Diary: Café Le Dac, Boulevard St.-Michele; 7:00 a.m., Friday; June 25, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 3:30 p.m., Wednesday; June 23, 2004; Paris, France

Took the Métro to the Eiffel Tower, walked along the Seine, waited in a 30-minute line with Koreans, Brits, Italians and Arabs but they closed the top due to the most amazing winds I’d ever experienced. We took the slat-wise water—wheel-powered elevators to the second viewing platform from whence we could see the Sacre CoeurContinue reading “European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 3:30 p.m., Wednesday; June 23, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 7:19 p.m., Tuesday; June 22, 2004; Paris, France

I wheeled and dealed with Joseph, the multi-lingual concierge, to get the suite on the 5th floor, with sitting room, two bathrooms, balcony with a view of the Pantheon, St.-Jacques and the tops of the tree-lined street below. We walked down rue Guy Lussac, Boulevard St.-Michel to the Boulevard St.-Germain to an old brasserie calledContinue reading “European Diary: Suite 503, Hotel Relais St.-Jacques, rue de l’Abbé de l’Epée; 7:19 p.m., Tuesday; June 22, 2004; Paris, France”

European Diary: Café Claude Bernard, rue Claude Bernard; 11:50 a.m., Tuesday; June 22, 2004; Paris, France

Waiting for our wash. As we left, a lovely specimen of Parisian womanhood was kneeling on the floor of the laundromat sniffing pants. Vive le France. Last night S. and I walked around the Latin Quarter and St.-Germain des Pres with D., my photographer friend from Boston, during the annual Night of Music. At theContinue reading “European Diary: Café Claude Bernard, rue Claude Bernard; 11:50 a.m., Tuesday; June 22, 2004; Paris, France”